Bias cut silk dress or straight, fashion editor’s insight

I have joined the slip dress bandwagon in an attempt to look dressed up and chic while concealing the extra layer of blubber I have accumulated in this pandemic. I have some slip dresses that I love, while some tends to cling in all the wrong areas.

The most confusing bit? The ones that cling in all the wrong areas seems to look larger on the hanger, while the slip dresses that are more flattering appears smaller. This is when I discovered the mystery of bias cut slip dresses.

Click and Jump to:

What is a bias cut

Technically speaking, a bias cut means ‘to be cut on the grain’. Instead of cutting along the straight line of the weave of the fabric, a bias cut is done diagonally at a 45 degree angle to the woven fabric.

The finished garment gives the impression of more stretch and more room for movement, even with non-stretchy fabrics like silk.

bias cut silk dress or straight, fashion editor's insight bias cut — This is how bias cut cut is done. Picture courtesy by masin

What is a bias cut dress

Simply a dress that is made using a bias cut, allowing the fabric to drape itself over the contours of the body. A bias cut dress, made of silk or not, generally moulds itself to your bust and hips and curves gently inwards to the waist.

Are bias cut dresses flattering?

In general, anything cut on the bias, skirts, dresses and tops are flattering. A wise insight from Harris steward, editor of Elle magazine; ‘The cut is key; anything on the bias is usually really flattering as it hugs the small part of your waist and skims over your hips ‘

I tend to bloat and a close fitted bodycon dress is not my friend. A bias cut silk dress however, helps smooth out any unsightly lumps and bumps. Ladies, this is the dress to accentuate all your curves!

Why do people cut bias on a dress?

On fabrics with minimal stretch, like silk, the bias cut gives increased flexibility in the finished garment. Why us this important?

Personally, a fitted dress made of non-stretchable material, like silk, makes me very paranoid. What if it rips! A bias cut silk dress will give the illusion of the dress being fitted due to way it drapes, and still gives you the ease of movement.

Another plus point that I love, the hems of bias cut dresses have this subtle flutter that just adds this air of effortless style.

bias cut silk dress or straight, fashion editor's insight bias cut silk slip — Look at this bias cut silk slip dress, flattering, flows well and the exact reason why people cut bias on a dress!

What is a bias cut good for?

With all the pros of the bias cut in mind, a bias cut dress, top or skirt is good for occasions when you want to highlight all your curves. It does not have to be a dressy occasion, I tend to gravitate towards bias cut skirts for work as it gives me more room for movement, while looking professional.

My best advice is to try it to and decide if you like how it looks.

What are the disadvantages of a bias cut slip dress

The bias cut as a whole has a few disadvantages, from being more environmentally unfriendly, more difficult to produce to more expensive to purchase.

If you are looking to sew a bias cut garment, the bias cut technique is difficult to master, and the garment is more time-consuming to produce. On top of that, more fabric is required as you need full pattern pieces that you can lay on a single layer of fabric, which also means more fabric wastage.

bias cut silk dress or straight, fashion editor's insight — An entire piece of pattern has to be laid flat to form one half of a garment, there is a lot of fabric wastage involved

As a consumer, this would translate to a more expensive piece of dress or skirt.

Another disadvantage that is rarely shared is that bias cut clothing tends to stretch over time, but as long as the seams are created to stretch with the fabric it is not a problem. Otherwise, the seams will give way and there would a tear in your clothing.

What are the cons of a bias cut slip dress as a wearer

The cons are exactly the pros of a bias cutting, it highlights all your curves! If you have a tummy, it will do exactly that.

But that is exactly when you should consider your other option, the straight cut slip dress.

What is a straight cut slip dress

Think of a triangle, narrower up top and flares out at the bottom. That is how most straight cut slip dresses are constructed.

bias cut silk dress or straight, fashion editor's insight green grana silk slip — This is my straight cut slip dress from grana, it is pretty much a slim triangle.

Advantages of a straight cut slip dress

It hides any flaws by concealing your figure as it is intentionally oversized. Food belly? A straight cut slip dress will conceal it. It gives this breezy casual look when worn on its own, yet polished enough to look dressed up.

bias cut silk dress or straight, fashion editor's insight navy blue grana silk slip — relaxed and breezy as shown on the model, still a slim triangle when worn. Some might even say it is shapless.

Disadvantages of a straight cut slip dress

It is simply shapeless and does not accentuate your figure. Similar to the bias cut slip dress, its advantages are also its disadvantages. It may be comfortable and chic, but it will also hide all of your curves – the good and the bad.

Comparison pictures of bias cut vs straight cut dress

A picture speaks a thousand words. So here are some pictures.

bias cut silk dress or straight, fashion editor's insight two silk dresses side by side — Bias cut red silk slip (left). Straight cut black silk slip (right)

Here are two of my silk slips, bias cut on the left and straight cut on the right. It is slightly difficult to see the difference in sizing when they are photographed separately. The next picture will show you how the bias cut silk (left) appears much smaller than the straight cut silk slip(right).

bias cut silk dress or straight, fashion editor's insight comparison of silk slips — The red bias cut silk slip appears much smaller in size than the black straight cut silk slip. But is it the case?

bias cut silk dress or straight, fashion editor's insight bias cut vs straight cut slip — Left: Red bias cut silk slip laid over black straight cut silk slip. Right: both slips hung up.

Appearances are deceiving, my red bias cut silk slip is actually the same width as the straight cut slip. When stretched out, the two silk slips are actually almost the same size. That is the beauty of the bias cutting and it is also why, when worn, it skims over our curves and appears more flattering.

Should I wear a bias cut silk slip or straight cut

At this point, it is an entirely personal preference. After trying, buying and selling several slip dresses, I think it is safe to say that it depends entirely on how it fits and the occasion in mind.

I reach for my trusty straight cut slip more often for a casual day out. But if it’s a night out with the husband, it will be the bias cut silk slip without a doubt. No matter which you choose, as long as you remove wrinkles from your silk slips, wash and care for them, you will look great!